Pardini SP new, need part dimension
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Pardini SP new, need part dimension
I am red faced to admit it but, the grip retaining screw is missing from my Pardini SP New. It must have fallen out and the grip was so tight to the frame I didn't notice.
I am pretty sure this is just a metric allen head screw but what size? I need the shank size and most importantly the length from under the head to the tip. Also is it threaded all the way up to the head?
If anyone has this out please measure it for me. Otherwise I have to pay $4.77 plus shipping from Pardini, wait a week instead of .50 at the hardware store.
TIA
I am pretty sure this is just a metric allen head screw but what size? I need the shank size and most importantly the length from under the head to the tip. Also is it threaded all the way up to the head?
If anyone has this out please measure it for me. Otherwise I have to pay $4.77 plus shipping from Pardini, wait a week instead of .50 at the hardware store.
TIA
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
Sunday AM - I'll measure one up later this afternoon
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
It is a 4mm machine-head screw, threaded to the head and 29.76mm / 1.17 inches long
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Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
Zipp0 wrote:It is a 4mm machine-head screw, threaded to the head and 29.76mm / 1.17 inches long
Mine is closer to 39.75mm, 29.76mm is just over an inch and the screw is longer than an inch.
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Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
I have made my own grips to all my pardinis so l can no longer tell you the length of the screw.
But l can tell you it is not threaded all the way to the head, and it is metric. It is NOT 4mm. It is 5mm.
But l can tell you it is not threaded all the way to the head, and it is metric. It is NOT 4mm. It is 5mm.
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
I think you are right on the 5 mm. I have two 5 mm taps and neither one wants to thread into the receptacle on the frame. But they do go in a few turns and stop. So that is either the wrong tap or the thread are a little screwed up. (pun not intended). 4 mm tap seems to loose.j danielsson wrote:I have made my own grips to all my pardinis so l can no longer tell you the length of the screw.
But l can tell you it is not threaded all the way to the head, and it is metric. It is NOT 4mm. It is 5mm.
thanks all.
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
Correct on the 5mm - my mistake - I grabbed my grip change hex T and got the wrong one (the 4mm is a bit sloppy) so 5mm is correct - my apologies
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
An M5 cap head screw take a 4mm hex key. Screws are described by the thread size, not what size hex key fits them.Zipp0 wrote:Correct on the 5mm - my mistake - I grabbed my grip change hex T and got the wrong one (the 4mm is a bit sloppy) so 5mm is correct - my apologies
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
Oh dear - don't know what to say... (this is not my area of expertise).. However.... nip down to Home depot and buy an M4 and M5 machine screw 30mm long and one should fit. Take the other back for a $0.50 refund (if the gas is worth it) and then let us know which one fits..... Deal?
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
the facile answer is rarely the best one.Zipp0 wrote:Oh dear - don't know what to say... (this is not my area of expertise).. However.... nip down to Home depot and buy an M4 and M5 machine screw 30mm long and one should fit. Take the other back for a $0.50 refund (if the gas is worth it) and then let us know which one fits..... Deal?
while you can pick the length, what length of that remains un threaded, if any? Having a threaded bolt in the wooden handle may damage the handle and not locate/anchor the grip in the best fashion. What is the thread pitch? Select the wrong pitch and you will ruin that the threaded receptacle in the frame. Neither of my Metric M5 taps threads (of 2 different thread pitches) threads into the receptacle. I could thread it for one or the other but if choosing the wrong pitch, effectively cutting one thread over the other, you would end up with less than standard thread depth which causes a weak thread.
So my solution is to order the bolt and a new receptacle and the tiny location spring (odds of losing one is high). When I have it in my hands I hope to be able to match the new perfect thread pitch. I will then take detailed measurements and report back here.
Then I will go to local hardware store which, is on the way to many places so requires no additional fuel, and has a better selection and buy several of the offending piece of hardware as spares.
All of this supposes that Pardini USA will supply an actual Pardini sourced part. I have dealt with vintage car suppliers who claim to supply the bolt as original but in fact only supply a normal hardware item that is "close" in length and rarely has the right amount of un threaded area. For instance, British cars have bolts varying by 1/8 inch, though they may be SAE threads all you can get seems to vary by the 1/4 inch. Yes, it actually makes a difference on reassembly.
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
sorry to offend you - however you mentioned the possibility of nipping down to the hardware store for a $0.50 buy instead of a Pardini part plus postage so I played on that thought. The screw is threaded to the head and my guess is that this is a common screw. Anyway tried to help - sorry it didn't work out.
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
thanks for you help.Zipp0 wrote:sorry to offend you - however you mentioned the possibility of nipping down to the hardware store for a $0.50 buy instead of a Pardini part plus postage so I played on that thought. The screw is threaded to the head and my guess is that this is a common screw. Anyway tried to help - sorry it didn't work out.
See...the Pardini people told me it "...wasn't a standard screw and the area *un threaded* would be important...and that it was a *special* screw" made by Pardini..." 1. this is almost always BS. 2. This implies that there actually is an un threaded portion. Last year they told me they couldn't "give me the dimensions of the chamber because it was a proprietary trade secret of Pardini;... just ship the gun in two parts/two boxes to us and we'll put a new barrel on it..."
Form your own opinion about customer care; I withhold comment.
Would have gone to the H. ware store by now since I go by it 6 times a week but, then I checked the pitch and neither 5 MM tap would fit. If one had threaded right in I would know the pitch and I could possibly find the right screw.
Note: we have conflicting statements about whether that said screw is threaded all the way up.
Yes, I suspected, and lobbied unsuccessfully to Pardini, that it is a standard screw and had I been answering the phone for Pardini, I would have told the customer the size, pitch, un threaded portion if any.
We're good
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
You can substitute that little spring with a piece of rubber (cut up an old O ring), does the same job and doesn't fly out when disassembled. It's only there to provide friction to hold the part in place while the grip is removed.xeye wrote:So my solution is to order the bolt and a new receptacle and the tiny location spring (odds of losing one is high).
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
Greetings,
Took the screw out of the Pardini grip I have in the shop.
M5 x 35mm
https://www.mcmaster.com/#91290a256/=17ig50q
Bear in mind that it is possible they use different length screws based on the grip size. I ran into this issue with a Steyr air pistol.
Cheers,
Dave
Took the screw out of the Pardini grip I have in the shop.
M5 x 35mm
https://www.mcmaster.com/#91290a256/=17ig50q
Bear in mind that it is possible they use different length screws based on the grip size. I ran into this issue with a Steyr air pistol.
Cheers,
Dave
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
exactly...having lost one already... I used a very thin film of plastic, some kind of label material that clings to things without glue. worked until I got a spring, the spring was a little nicer for locating the part because the Vitarbo grips Arnie made for me have a really deep hole which you drop the screw into and if it's not lined up it's tough catch the threads. Which, is another reason why the threads are screwed up. :-)j-team wrote:You can substitute that little spring with a piece of rubber (cut up an old O ring), does the samehe job and doesn't fly out when disassembled. It's only there to provide friction to hold the part in place while the grip is removed.xeye wrote:So my solution is to order the bolt and a new receptacle and the tiny location spring (odds of losing one is high).
a length of welding rod is handy for lining this up, then i slide the grip up, withdraw rod, drop in screw. It's the best way I can figure out so far.
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
interesting, I don't think either tap in my set was 0.8mm pitch. Good thing I didn't decide to chase the threads with it.fc60 wrote:Greetings,
Took the screw out of the Pardini grip I have in the shop.
M5 x 35mm
https://www.mcmaster.com/#91290a256/=17ig50q
Bear in mind that it is possible they use different length screws based on the grip size. I ran into this issue with a Steyr air pistol.
Cheers,
Dave
thank you for going through the trouble,
that was very kind.
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
Greetings,
The retaining clip has my attention.
All the Pardini grips I have encountered recently do not have a clip. The head of the screw is captured in the grip by one of the smaller screws that attach the palm rest. I assumed this was by design and I applauded the clever designer that thought of it.
Pardini constantly updates/changes things. There have been at least four variations of 32 S&W Long barrel that I have seen.
Cheers,
Dave
The retaining clip has my attention.
All the Pardini grips I have encountered recently do not have a clip. The head of the screw is captured in the grip by one of the smaller screws that attach the palm rest. I assumed this was by design and I applauded the clever designer that thought of it.
Pardini constantly updates/changes things. There have been at least four variations of 32 S&W Long barrel that I have seen.
Cheers,
Dave
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Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
The standard pitch of m5 is 0.8 mm.
If your tap is not marked with anything else, it is
a standard pitch.
Pardini uses the standard pitch.
In my 30 years as a mechanic of any sort, I do not
think l have ever seen a m5 screw that wasn't standard.
Therefore, l think you have the right tap.
If you have a Rink grip the length will be different.
If your tap is not marked with anything else, it is
a standard pitch.
Pardini uses the standard pitch.
In my 30 years as a mechanic of any sort, I do not
think l have ever seen a m5 screw that wasn't standard.
Therefore, l think you have the right tap.
If you have a Rink grip the length will be different.
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
j danielsson wrote:The standard pitch of m5 is 0.8 mm.
If your tap is not marked with anything else, it is
a standard pitch.
Pardini uses the standard pitch.
In my 30 years as a mechanic of any sort, I do not
think l have ever seen a m5 screw that wasn't standard.
Therefore, l think you have the right tap.
If you have a Rink grip the length will be different.
my set has two 5mm taps: 5mm-0.8 and 5mm-0.9 So. The question remains which if either, did Pardini use?
Re: Pardini SP new, need part dimension
Greetings,
The Pardini's I have encountered have the "normal" M5x0.8 thread.
Look at your M5x0.9 tap again. Does it actually say 0.5? I could not find a M5x0.9 tap.
The threads of the 0.5 tap will be finer than the 0.8 tap.
Also, check to see if the round tapped piece in the frame is not turned 180 degrees. I would expect the part to be tapped all the way through so you can start a bolt from either direction.
Last, learn from my mistake. The round piece in the frame has a spring and ball to retain it in the frame. DO NOT REMOVE the circular part unless absolutely necessary.
Cheers,
Dave
The Pardini's I have encountered have the "normal" M5x0.8 thread.
Look at your M5x0.9 tap again. Does it actually say 0.5? I could not find a M5x0.9 tap.
The threads of the 0.5 tap will be finer than the 0.8 tap.
Also, check to see if the round tapped piece in the frame is not turned 180 degrees. I would expect the part to be tapped all the way through so you can start a bolt from either direction.
Last, learn from my mistake. The round piece in the frame has a spring and ball to retain it in the frame. DO NOT REMOVE the circular part unless absolutely necessary.
Cheers,
Dave