The answer is 'Styrene' <read off the side of my tin>
And now, what difference does that make (apart from the smell) ?
Rob.
Morini Grip Compound
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Re: Styrene
Thanks for your answer!RobStubbs wrote:The answer is 'Styrene' <read off the side of my tin>
And now, what difference does that make (apart from the smell) ?
Rob.
Epoxy is hard and tough, but often slow curing. I thought perhaps the Morini paste could be a special type of fast curing epoxy and therefore be better suited for modifying grips than standard (styrene/polyester based) wood fillers.
It's styrene based. heaven forbid should you ever just get a simple answer;). I tcure spretty quick depending on the anount of activator used. it bonds well to the grip (if you clean all the oil from your hands off). but it still can be removed with a little work and can be easily shaped by sanding or dremmel after curing. It's nothing like the "plastic wood"
Well, I just finished modifying my 162E grips.
Scott was out of Morini Grip Compound, so I took nthe10ring's advice, and picked up a 1oz. tube of Quick Wood at Home Depot. The instructions said it could be mixed with most oil-base stains, so I cut a small piece off the bar and after kneading, added a bit of Brownell's Accraglas Dye, to test it for cure, which was not affected by the dye.
Kneaded up the rest of the 1oz. bar, and added a bit of the dye, the size of a match head, and applied it to the grip, which I had prepared by sanding, and plugging the grip screw hole with a piece of Tygon tubing.
Following the package instructions, I moistened my hands with water, and gripping the pistol, pressing the putty into the stippled grip. Several times, I did the closed eyes test to check for sight alignment, adjusting the putty as necessary. When satisfied, I set the pistol down for the compound to cure, which should take about an hour. The whole operation, not counting the test piece, took about fifteen minutes.
I'm thinking about covering the grip with an abrasive powder such as F.Paul in Denver did. He sent me photos of his pistol, and I was very impressed. I've got some aluminum oxide sand blasting grit, about the size of fine beach sand, which should do the job.
Paul
Scott was out of Morini Grip Compound, so I took nthe10ring's advice, and picked up a 1oz. tube of Quick Wood at Home Depot. The instructions said it could be mixed with most oil-base stains, so I cut a small piece off the bar and after kneading, added a bit of Brownell's Accraglas Dye, to test it for cure, which was not affected by the dye.
Kneaded up the rest of the 1oz. bar, and added a bit of the dye, the size of a match head, and applied it to the grip, which I had prepared by sanding, and plugging the grip screw hole with a piece of Tygon tubing.
Following the package instructions, I moistened my hands with water, and gripping the pistol, pressing the putty into the stippled grip. Several times, I did the closed eyes test to check for sight alignment, adjusting the putty as necessary. When satisfied, I set the pistol down for the compound to cure, which should take about an hour. The whole operation, not counting the test piece, took about fifteen minutes.
I'm thinking about covering the grip with an abrasive powder such as F.Paul in Denver did. He sent me photos of his pistol, and I was very impressed. I've got some aluminum oxide sand blasting grit, about the size of fine beach sand, which should do the job.
Paul