TargetTalk

Hello,

I have a Pardini K-22 FP and have a curiosity.

1- sometimes I have to work the action twice to get the case out after firing, is this normal?

2- In the event that I had to unload the gun after it has been loaded, how can I get the case out since It seems to be pressed there and will not come out with the extractor.

3- Can I stick a cleaning rod down the barrel and remove the round during a match in the event of a misfire / unloading?

Anonymous wrote:Hello,

I have a Pardini K-22 FP and have a curiosity.

1- sometimes I have to work the action twice to get the case out after firing, is this normal?

2- In the event that I had to unload the gun after it has been loaded, how can I get the case out since It seems to be pressed there and will not come out with the extractor.

3- Can I stick a cleaning rod down the barrel and remove the round during a match in the event of a misfire / unloading?

1. no
2. I use a wooden knitting needle inserted from the muzzle. I would not use a metal cleaning rod
3. I think so, but I don't have a rule book handy.

Make sure your chamber is clean. I use a 25 cal bronze bristle brush inserted only into the chamber (~1/2 in) to remove deposits. Also make sure the breach face is clean and the extractor is free to move. The chamber on my K22 is pretty tight. I shoot SK Pistol Match and find that I have to push hard on the toggle to chamber the round. But I have no extraction problems

Assuming chamber is clean, this sounds like an ammo problem. I had a Hammerli 152 which was tightly chambered. American ammo like CCI would chamber only with a very hard press of the thumb before closing the action. A misfire was hard to remove. The problem was solved by switching to other brands of ammo like SK, Eley and Fiocchi.

I agree with the previous responses. This does not sound typical and I also would be suspicious of the ammo or perhaps a genuine mechanical problem with the extractor. My own experience is that I've had my K22 for 8 months without any problems whatsoever. I've run around 4,000 rounds through it and I think I've cleaned it twice. I'm shooting Federal 711B.

I also agree that a wooden rod is a better choice than a cleaning rod for removing a stuck round or a stuck case. You can find suitable wooden doweling at most lumber supply houses such as Home Depot.

One inportant warning. Do not let any part of your body get in front of the bore when removing a misfire in this manner. There have been numerous injuries and fatalities resulting from a misfired cartridge detonating while being removed with cleaning rods, dowels, etc. The cause is often quite mysterious, as the detonation occurs without any further impact to the primer. Also, stay well clear of the opened action, since a detonation will send brass shrapnel spewing forth from the action, as well as the projectile out of the barrel. Try re-cocking and re-firing first. Failing a repeated attempt, drop your dowel down the bore, preferably while holding the dowel with a tool. Tap the dowel with a piece of 2x4 or a hammer, not the palm of your hand. The action should be pointed to the side, in a safe manner.

By the way Nicole, that review of your K22 is still the best thing I've ever read on that particular Pardini.

"The action should be pointed to the side, in a safe manner. "?

Surely that should be 'the pistol pointed downrange at all times'

Spencer

Spencer wrote:"The action should be pointed to the side, in a safe manner. "?

Surely that should be 'the pistol pointed downrange at all times'

Spencer

That's sensible advice when the explosive charge directs the bullet out of the front of the gun. In a case like this where the explosion will send projectiles in two or three directions I'm not sure it's quite so easy. Of paramount importance in all cases is of course everybodies safety.

Rob.

Spencer wrote:"The action should be pointed to the side, in a safe manner. "?

Surely that should be 'the pistol pointed downrange at all times'

Spencer

Yes, that too. But I think what Guest is recommending is that while the muzzle is pointed downrange, the open action should be pointed away from the person clearing the weapon i.e. to the side, not up.
The safest procedure of all is to pour a light oil like WD40 or Kroil into the barrel and let the round sit in that for a day. Of course, the would be out of service for the match.

I have an older Pardini FP (PG-75?) that has a tight chamber. If I don't keep it clean, I regularly get fired cases stuck in the chamber. I've learned that I can easily pop them out by pushing the open mouth of a fired case down between the rim & the breech face. That will usually pop it free, and I can then pry the case out by levering the "extractor" case forward.

I've always been taught that a pistol with a clean chamber should allow a loaded round to drop freely all the way into the chamber. If that doesn't happen with your pistol, I'd look into different ammo. Some ammo has more lube than others, and some lube is stickier than others. I prefer ammo with a light coating of a fairly hard wax. Some ammo also has a softer radius between the rim & the case wall, which makes it easier for the extractor to slip off if the case is tight.

Also make sure that the extractor slot is clean. If dirt builds up there, it will reduce the amount of "grab" the extractor has on the case.

I keep a new .22 brush in my gun box with the back end bent at 90 degrees for a handle. I can insert this is the chamber quickly during a match without a rod and give it a couple of twists back & forth to loosen any debris. Rather than shooting the resulting dirt out of the bore, I then have a flexible nylon cleaning "string" that I can put a patch on and pull through the bore. The one I have is a commercial gadget, but you can make one of your own with nylon weed-wacker string. Heat a piece of metal and gently mash a lump on one end to hold the patch, and sharpen the other end to stab through a patch.

I can clean my chamber and wipe out the bore in about 10 seconds this way.

Er, with most guns (and I'm not familiar with the one mentioned) with extractors visible from the side of the slide you can typically press your finger(s) against the front side of the extractor while pulling the slide to the rear. With most of the guns I've used, this usually works.

Cecil

CR10XGuest wrote:Er, with most guns (and I'm not familiar with the one mentioned) with extractors visible from the side of the slide you can typically press your finger(s) against the front side of the extractor while pulling the slide to the rear. With most of the guns I've used, this usually works.

Cecil

The K22 has an internal extractor, totally enclosed by the bolt.

fred has it right. Action turned sideways in a safe direction, with muzzle downrange. Sorry, I thought that was clear.

Gwhite wrote:I've always been taught that a pistol with a clean chamber should allow a loaded round to drop freely all the way into the chamber.

This is not necessarily true for a free pistol. Don Nygord told me that he thought of a FP as a small handheld rifle. He said that for best accuracy, he believed - after having talked with SB rifle barrel makers - that the rifling should engage the bullet down to the second driving band. Thus, many times when a round is difficult to chamber in a FP, it's really the lead bullet engaging the rifling that causes the interference, and not the diameter of the brass case against the chamber side. That's why CCI SV is difficult to chamber in many FPs; it's not a "fat" round, but it is very long.

This is easy enough to test. If you extract an intact round, you may be able to see the rifling marks on the bullet. If you then rechamber it, you'll find it goes in much easier. That's not because you have resized the brass.

FredB

FredB,
One reason I prefer the Pardini FP is its toggle bolt action, which can apply more chambering force than the falling block action of the Toz, Hammerli, etc. I used to lose my patience (not good during a match) when my Toz refused to chamber a round :-(

FredM

I have noticed that fired cases from other guns (hammerli) do not chamber in my K-22. However a fired case from the K-22 will fit easily in the chamber. I have also seen the rifling marks on the bullets meaning that the lands are making contact with the bullet prior to detonation.

I guess that the fact that the bullet is kind of pressed in there means better accuracy, like a bolt action where for best accuracy you will only neck size the case and not full lenght rezise, thus a very tight fit in the chamber.

My K-22 is anywhere from .75 to 1.5" accurate 10 shot group at 50 meters, from ransom which is good enough for me!

If the k22 bolt works anything like the pgp75 then a little work can restore the extractor.

When i first started using my pgp75, it would not always extract. I disassembled the extractor and cleaned it, but it still did not work.

on close examination, the extractor was not engaging the rim very well. I removed a small amount of metal with a dremel on the underside of the extractor that rests on the bolt, and a slight bit on the inside of the claw, making it sharper, and engaging further foward. The extractor now works flawlessly and ejects the cases a few inches. Be very careful as parts are hard to find.

Someone mentioned that the k22 has an internal extractor. If it works in a simmilar way, with some careful examination you can probably figure out what's wrong.

The pgp75 has a slot in the breech where the extractor goes, if that is dirty, the extractor may not engage the rim.

My pgp75 has a tight chamber, I have to push lightly to insert the bullet. The rifling does not engage the bullet.